Episode 226: Q&A special

What’s wrong with Summer’s Schlumbergera?

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TRANSCRIPT

Jane Perrone 00:05

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Jane Perrone 01:18

Hello there this is On The Ledge podcast coming to you with not so live from On The Ledge towers. Bedfordshire, England. No, it's not general Kenobi. It's Jane Perrone. Although, I can understand how you'd get the two mixed up. And this is a podcast very much about houseplants. And for episode 226. It's a q&a special How are you diddling? I am diddling, well, I'm diddling. Okay, I'm working on the developmental edits of my book at the minute, which basically means that it's been sent off to an editor who sent it back. And so I'm doing some work on it right now to make it even better than it was before. I know it's frustrating this waiting game, I don't yet have a publication date. I can tell you, it's not going to be till 2023. I know that's lightyears away for those of us who are eagerly anticipating the book. But it's going to be worth the wait, I promise you and thank you to everyone who continues to pre order. But don't worry if for some reason you don't want to preorder that's absolutely fine. It will be available in all good book shops. Sorry for the plug. But I do know lots of you wanted to know what's happening. So I wanted just to fill you in, plug over and a thank you to hola, exclamation mark for leaving a lovely review for the show.

Jane Perrone 02:58

And now let's crack on without any further ado, with the questions this week, I've got a clutch of questions from listeners with plants that are not looking as they should. So let's see what I can do to help. I will preface what I'm about to say with the following. It's really hard to provide answers that are black and white for questions about plants when you're not looking at the plant in person. So I'm going to do my best as always, just to point you in the direction of some things you should be looking out for to allow you to hopefully diagnose what the problem might be yourself with the tools and information that I'm giving you. And as always, if you as a listener think Jane's talking absolute rubbish here. That's not the problem. This is the problem, then do let me know. I'm always happy for listeners to chime in with their thoughts. And the first question comes from Ange, who is a Patreon subscriber. Thank you and Ange's planty question revolves around a Florida philodendron. Now it's thriving, but it's all one vine. And Ange is keen for some information on chop and prop on Florida's does it work where to chop. So let's start by asking a very simple question. Well, what is a Philodendron Florida?

Jane Perrone 04:24

I guess that maybe if you're on social media a lot you may be more familiar with the term Florida Ghost. We'll come on to that in a moment. But first, what's a Florida? Well, the best guess is it's a hybrid between two different species within the genus philodendron. The leaf shape of Florida is what's known in botanical terms as pedate. Now doesn't look anything like a human foot. But if you imagine a bird's foot, then you're quite a bit closer to what we're talking about here. And indeed one of the parents of this hybrid, Florida is Philodendron pedatum, the other parent is Philodendron squamiferum. And both of them have these pedate leaves, these bird foot leaves. If you're wondering where the Florida Ghost fits into all this well, as ever, breeders are looking for that interesting coloration on the leaves in Florida Ghost takes that bird foot leaves and adds a very generous dollop of chlorophyll deprivation to the mix. I have heard that the name ghost refers to the leaves being ghost shaped. I mean, maybe I don't know about that one. But the ghost, I always thought it was just because it was kind of pale and ethereal rather than the plain green of the Florida. But anyway, that's irrelevant in this particular discussion. What we need to know is how do we chop and prop a Florida, I mean, I'm less worried about giving you advice on this. And because as ever, the variegated form is a bit more fragile than the plain green. So as you've got the plain green, we can kind of be confident that chopping your plant is not going to end in some disastrous way. It's safe to say when you're talking about any philodendron hybrid, you might see Florida being sold as Florida Green or Beauty Green, I think they're all basically the same thing. But as I say, it's a lovely plant. Mine's had various pests over the last year, and I have chopped it in rather brutal ways. It's currently sitting outside, I'll keep giving it Paddington Bear stairs, and I pass. But it's doing okay. And I have chopped it several times, I think this is a pretty tough plant. And I think your chance of success is extremely high. And so given that you've only got one vine, though, clearly, you want to do something about that, I'm going to take you outside to my plant.

Jane Perrone 07:07

And let's have a look at what to do and how to do it. Right Hello, philodendron, Florida. It's outside, as I say the leaves on it are looking, looking okay, then not obviously showing any signs of pest at the minute, but they are showing signs of historic pest damage. Thank you thrips. But what I can see from looking at this plant that it is eminently choppable. So the great thing about philodendrons is generally it's quite easy to see what you're working with in terms of where to chop. Each vine has got a node with one leaf coming out of the side of it, and they tend to alternate, so you get a leaf coming out on one side than a leaf coming out on the neck, other side on the next joint. And usually you'll find a little ring of adventitious roots coming out of the bottom of that node, which is great because that's basically the start of a new root system for your cutting. And I can see where I've chopped this plant before and the axillary bud on that no, just above that node where I've chopped has and that's the that's the opposite side of the leaf. There's this axillary board which is lying dormant until you take off that top cutting and then that is where the new life will burst through. I've got a knife here which I'm going to use to chop I don't know, I can't remember how easy this is going to be but how this stem feels pretty woody and firm but we'll give it a go. So where am I going to chop Well, I'm going to look just above that node and I'm going to chop just above it leaving the leaf intact now on this plant let's just see. Okay, so I've got actually got I've actually got 1-2-3 stems coming out of this plant so I'm going to chop the this particular piece so I'm going in just above that the leaf and the node and slicing through with my knife and easy as pie comes away. Oh, it's got a I've just there's a I've got a cutting of Solomon's Seal, a division of Solomon's Seal which is a garden plant that sat next to this plant and that suffers from a infestation by a saw fly, which produces these little green, not green grey caterpillars. And so one of these grey caterpillars has dropped from the Solomon's seal on to the philodendron. And it's very confused because it doesn't want to eat the philodendron. It wants to eat the Solomon seals. Yes, that is not going to trouble my plant, but I'm going to put them down there. And hopefully, one of the rings from the nest above me will come and have a nice feast on those. So I've taken my cutting of my philodendron. No, that's a piece of dead geranium. That's not my cutting, here's my cutting. And what you can see from this is that I've got this stretch of stem, I'm going to trim off the internodal bit of stem. So that's the bit that goes from the point that I caught up to the next node, I'm going to trim that off, because that's not going to grow into anything. And I'm left with this. What some people would call a wet sick I suppose, which is got a node on one side and a leaf on the other side. And this should grow nicely into a new plant. And there's various ways that I could propagate this. When I've propagated this in the past, I've just stuck it in a glass of water, and it's been absolutely fine. But if you want to propagate it in a propagation box, containing some spagna moss or some damp, expanded clay pebbles, that would work just as well. I found this is extremely easy to root. Not problematic at all, I haven't bothered sealing the cutting of the stem with any wax or anything as I will might do for a larger stem like a like a monster. And but this should grow quite quickly. And then what you can do and use just thought the cutting back into the original parts of possibly moving it to a larger pot. And that should then allow your plant to have multiple stems. And your problem is solved. I mean, I could actually I'm going to take off another one actually here. So I'm going to cut again just above that node leaving that leaf intact, that's adjoining the node. And now I've got another cutting with two nodes on it. And I'm going to just trim that node back. There we go. Chuck that on the flowerbed and I've got my two cuttings. So I think I'm going to put one of these in water and the other one, I'm going to try in the crop box, the one I'm going to put into water, I'm going to remove the lower leaf because that's just going to rot because it's going to be under the water surface. And I'm left with a one leaf cutting with two nose, which should do very, very nicely. And yeah, this plants are really, really syphon thrips is a tough old being. So hopefully you'll have no problems. But do let me know how you get on. And I will attempt to put a picture in the show notes to show you what I've done.

Jane Perrone 13:30

I am far from the world's best graphic designer, but I've put a couple of pictures up in the shownotes as I said there, which hopefully will give you an idea of the different parts of the stem that we're dealing with and where you need to cut. And hopefully if you're applying that to well any trailing slash climbing slash empathetic philodendron each should apply the same. Now on to the next question. And it comes from Gwyneth I'm just going to put my specs on for this one because for some reason the text is very small. There we go. I can see now. So this one comes from Gwyneth and it came in on the email ontheledgepodcast@gmail.com With has got quite a few plants by the sound of it including ferns, sundews and orchids but it's the Aspidistra elatior or aka the cast iron plant that's causing a few problems now. If you've been listening to the show for a long time, you will know that I love as pedestrians but I'm going to be honest with you, I find them a heck of a lot easier to grow outside in a bed than I do in a pot. And I've had my own problems with this. These ones potted. So currently all my Aspidistras have been put outside into beds. Partly because I was just running out of time to repot things and firefight problems and out there they're the world's easiest plants provided they've got shade they will grow We're in dry soil, and they're great plants for outside as well. So, I guess my preface to this question is, if in doubt, you could try outside but anyway, let's see what the problem is first before we exile Gwyneth's plant. brown tips are showing up on the leaves and it doesn't look lush or healthy. The new leaves a few and they seem to be getting brown tips too. And Gwyneth is wondering if they're expecting too much because, well, this plant is well known to be slow growing, Gwyneth is worried about looking at the roots because they've read that they don't like to be disturbed too often. It's in a west facing window for late afternoon sun. And as far as Gwyneth knows, no pests are present. So what can we garner from that? You're right, Gwyneth, it Aspidistras are not that keen on being regularly reported, but I would definitely risk having a look at those routes. I didn't mention that it's in a self watering pot. And I am wondering whether the self watering pot is allowing too much moisture to sit in that substrate. For that reason, I think it's definitely worth taking out the root ball and having a look and seeing what's going on. That will give you an idea as to whether it's unhappy, because it could just as likely be dryness around the roots as too much moisture that's causing the brown tips. I know it's really confusing and annoying that that the same symptom can have two different causes. But there we go. That's plants for you. Gwyneth didn't mention temperature. And I'm wondering if given that Gwyneth is in Canada, whether there are warm blasts of air vent heating his in that plant in winter. Now that is something it really is not going to like that's why the Victorians loved it because it did so well in their really rather chilly homes, I would think about looking at the soil and seeing what's going on maybe changing it away from the self watering pot into a regular plastic pot, where you can monitor moisture yourself. I think it's fine to take it out of the pot. I think what it doesn't like is being constantly repotted, but you taking it out the pot probably won't cause any problems at all. Those brown tips are sometimes an indication that the plant has had too much water. So that's a good guess on my part, but I would like to see what it looks like once you've had a chance to put it in a different pot. See what the new emerging leaves look like whether you're still getting that same Browning tip? And if you're not, then I think that we'll have answered your question.

Jane Perrone 17:42

And finally, at the risk of sounding like a broken record. I feel like I say this to pretty much everyone I meet at the moment but do you have a botanist hand lens. If you don't, please get one or use something like a jeweler's loupe, your smartphone or some other way of assisting your eyes because Aspidistra elatior is very prone to red spider mite and particularly if it has been sat next to source of dry heat over the winter, it could well be that the plant has a little dusting of red spider mites that you can't see, there may not be obvious signs like webbing, which only really comes with a really bad infestation. But if you catch an infestation early before it's visible in to the naked eye by using a hand lens, then you can nip the problem in the bud. So do have a look with a hand lens and what you're looking for on the underside of those leaves is that grainy white deposit which is the skins of the red spider mites as they grow up, they shed their skin delightful, and if you have a hand lens, you will also be able to see the actual red spider mites themselves. They're either red or brown, and they look like little tiny crabs moving around on the leaves. And unless you've got amazing eyes, you really can only spot these with a hand lens of about 10 times magnification or more. I do hope that helps Gwynneth and if all else fails, try chucking your Aspidistra outside in a shady corner. And you may find it perks up. I mean when I say chucking it outside I do mean actually putting it into the bed as opposed to when a pot certainly if you've got variegated Asper destroyers, I have found that if they are not producing much variation indoors, this really does kickstart the variation if they go outside into a bed, which I think was actually noted in the episode I did with Philip boost and bring on as per destress some time ago, probably longer than I think actually. I'll link to that in the show notes too. If you want to listen to that Aspidistra episode.

Jane Perrone 19:59

Next question comes from Deborah. And Deborah has just discovered the podcast Hurray and is working through past episodes, and has a bird of paradise, a fairly new plant to Deborah. And it's doing well and produced several leaves that were normal. But the last two leaves from the spring appear normal as they unfold. But the last parts of the leaves to unfurl have a crinkled appearance and have not completely opened up. And apparently, this plant is protected from direct sunlight in a Northwest window and watered when the soil is dry to the depth of the first knuckle and didn't get fertiliser over the winter. Well, Deborah, I think that probably the cause of those new leads being wrinkled is an irregular supply of water, as they put out that new growth, tricky, tricky, tricky to get it right with something like a Strelitzia. I suspect, though, that the fact that it's sitting in a Northwest window is making things trickier for you. Still, it seems like a heck of a lot of sunlight, they are plants that love the light. And so I'm wondering if the plants not getting enough light, therefore, it's not really transpiring very much not needing a huge amount of water. And it's, therefore, you're getting panicky about how much water to give it, then it's going to the opposite extreme and getting too dry. And then those leaves, there's just not enough water for them to develop normally, and they're coming out wrinkled. That's my hypothesis, I would be wanting to check the roots. I mean, I'm saying this on every query, but go and check the roots and have a look at what's going on. Right at the bottom of the root ball, is it dry, it might be really dry there. Even if it's even if you're watering regularly, if you can, with this kind of plant. A good soaking, followed by a period of drying out is great. So I've you know, literally putting the whole pot into a big bucket of water and soaking through the root ball, then letting it drain. That way you're ensuring the whole root ball gets wet. And gets water is moving around that root ball as opposed to some water coming from above or below and not really reaching all the way through. Particularly if it's a large pot, I would try moving that plant from a Northwest window to something a bit brighter gradually do it gradually. Because obviously as we know sunburn can be a problem, but gradually expose it to more light. That means you'll be able to water it more and less have a problem with panicking about it being too, too over watered. I think that will probably solve your problem as a combination of two different approaches there. So yeah, moving it to the light, and therefore you can water a bit more and when you do water try soaking rather than just dribbling on a bit of water. I definitely start feeding it now as well. If it's inactive growth, it definitely needs fertiliser and it's quite a hungry plant. Those leaves are quite meaty and substantial. So it needs nutrients to make sure that the growth processes go smoothly.

Jane Perrone 23:19

The next question is a little bit of a sad one. I'm afraid it comes from Summer and summer wanted an opinion on a Thanksgiving cactus that's bee n part of Summer's collection for about a year and a half and bloomed beautifully and summer scents and pictures of the plant in bloom and it was great. Unfortunately now the new growth has developed strange translucent spots that feel like bumps sometimes and sometimes feel thinner than the rest of the leaf. And summers worried this might spread to other plants. I am looking at the pictures and immediately alarm bells are ringing. I suspect that this might be a virus because there are quite a few viruses that affect these kinds of plants. It's quite common in these Thanksgiving cactuses. One of them is called Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus. And there's another virus called Cactus virus X which sounds terribly appalling, doesn't it? And both of these have been found to affect Schlumbergera truncata aka the Thanksgiving cactus. Most of these viruses do show up as some kind of round depressed or bumpy spot on the plants that are discoloured and will begin to spread across the growth. I advise summer that personally if this was me, and it was a plant that was a year and a half old and wasn't a special nostalgic, heirloom plant. I personally would get rid of that plant because I would just be worried about it spreading to other plants in my collection. Some of these viruses can be spread by pests like thrips that suck up the sap from one plant and spread it to another. So there's a high risk that if it is a virus, it's going to get passed on to some of your other plants that are susceptible, Schlumbergeras do suffer from other things that can make the cladodes. Those flatten stems look, bumpy, Lumpy, damaged Brown.

Jane Perrone 25:25

Generally speaking, you are talking about things like scale, which is a pest that looks like well as brown scale that sits on the surface. And if you do have scale, and you push one with your fingernail, it will come away. So that's a clear sign that it's a pest. The scale is often mistaken for physical damage to the plant, which can also look very similar a brown lump, but when you push that with your fingernail, it won't move, the damage will just stay there. So that's one way of telling difference between those two things. Also, on older stems, you'll get caulking, where the surface turns from green to kind of a darkish. Brown, and it looks kind of quirky, again, on the lower stems of older plants, that's quite natural. So we do have to be careful that we don't throw away perfectly healthy plants at the first sign of anything that looks unfamiliar on the cladodes. But I'll put a picture in the show notes of Summer's plant, and you can take a look. And I'll also link to some sites showing other Shamburger is infected with viruses, which will help you to pin down the problem. And sometimes with plants like this, it is just worth taking action early. Because you don't want to lose your whole collection. It's particularly important if you've got a lot of these plants, and how terrible it is when you have a situation where lots of them succumb at the same time. It's tragic. So summer, I'm sorry for your loss of your plant. But hopefully, the rest of your collection will be fine.

Jane Perrone 27:09

And the final question is a bit of an update to a question that I answered in Episode 201. I think that was probably the last cue and a special concerning the everfresh tree. I'll link to that episode in the show notes. But Graham wanted to track down this rather nice looking house plant called the everfresh tree, which is paid for slow being comfortable in the rat in. I got a message recently from Jack who wanted to know if I'd got any further with sourcing this particular species or seeds of the species. Now, I mean, the disappointing use is no, I have not found any source of albizia Splendens seed or plants in the UK or indeed anywhere in the western world It seems and just to complete the house plant, hunt game bingo. I also while looking for this plant the other day found a variegated form on Instagram just to drive everyone yet more crazy about this plant, I will put a link to that in the show notes. It appears to be a variegated, our busiest Wednesdays with. I mean, I'm not going to get that excited about the variation on it to be honest, but I know some people will but hey, we can't even get the plain green form. So I don't know why we're worrying too much about the variegated form, but I guess added in there. For the sake of completeness. When I'm looking on Instagram for this plot. Everyone who seems to have won is in places like Singapore and Malaysia. I haven't come across any accounts in the UK or the US or Europe that seems to be growing this plant. Well, that's what I thought, haha. until four weeks ago, James Wong posted something on his Instagram entitled The everfresh tree talking about how you can bonsai the plant or not exactly bonsai, but train the stems into contorted shapes using wire rather than trying to make them super small. So I took the liberty of messaging James on Twitter, and asking him where he got his plant and the response was that it came from a friend as seeds. So not entirely helpful for those of us searching for a source in either the UK or the US or elsewhere. James does note that the seas have a very short viability window, which is presumably why the plant hasn't really kicked off and gain traction in Europe in the US because it comes from that part of the world. And so obviously the seas are easy to transport around that region. I don't think it's an insurmountable problem. Perhaps there's more to it. than meets the eye but I'd be interested to know what's going on with this plant whether anyone is trying to bring it to other parts of the world. I suspect they will eventually I think we will see it in time. But do keep me posted if you see this plant anywhere outside of Japan, Singapore Malaysia way as ever James warm leading the way

Jane Perrone 30:35

That is all for this episode of On The Ledge. I will be back next Friday. But until then, I hope you and your pants find yourself not just within acceptable parameters, but taking a few moments to enjoy the little things in life. And with that in mind, I'm off to make a cup of tea

Jane Perrone 31:13

The music you heard in this episode was Roll Jordan Roll by the Joy Drops. The road we used to travel when we were young by Komiku and Namaste by Jason Shaw. The music was Dill Pickles by the Heftone banjo orchestra. All Tracks are Licenced under Creative Commons. Visit the show notes for details.

I answer a new batch of listener questions covering everything from a bird of paradise with wrinkly leaves to a Thanksgiving cactus with bumpy bits.

The Plant Ledger is here…

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Check out the show notes below as you listen…

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Chopping a Philodendron ‘Florida

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• Ange wanted to know how and when to chop and prop her plant as it’s currently a single vine.

• Philodendron ‘Florida’ is thought to be a hybrid between Philodendron pedatum and P. squamiferum - they have pedate leaves - ie they look like a bird’s foot. ‘Florida Ghost’ is a variegated sport that’s still rather rare.

• The pic just above shows the different parts of the stem - click on it to see an enlarged copy. This Philodendron produces alternate leaves, and the point where the leaf stalk ((petiole) joins the stem is called the node. Just above the node, on the opposite side to the petiole, there’s a little bump called an axillary bud. When a stem gets chopped, the growth hormone is redirected to these axillary buds, causing them to grow.

• Check out the picture to the right to see where to chop (click to enlarge): essentially you need to chop just below a node, and trim that cutting to just above a node.

How to make an Aspidistra happy

• Gwyneth’s Aspidistra elatior is not looking happy - take a look at the pic to see what is going on!

• Aspidistra does not like being repotted often, but removing the rootball from the pot to check out what the roots are doing should not cause a problem.

• Aspidistras hate hot dry air from heating systems, so do not leave them close to vents in winter. Gwyneth’s plant was in a self-watering pot, which - depending on the substrate it is planted in - may be making the roots unhappy. I suggest moving it to a plastic or terracotta pot where you can water on demand.

• Always check the undersides of Aspidistra leaves for red spider mites with a botanist’s hand lens as this can often cause these plants to look sad, even if it’s a fairly minor infestation.

• For more on red spider mites, listen to On The Ledge episode 102.

• For more Aspidistra advice, check out On The Ledge episode 138.

A wrinkly bird of paradise

• Debra got in touch about a bird of paradise aka Strelitzia whose new growth is turning out wrinkly.

• It’s in a NW facing window, and I suspect the plant is not getting enough light, which has a knock on effect on watering. I’d gradually move this plant to a brighter spot.

• Soaking the plant then letting it drain, rather than more regular dribbles of water that do not wet the whole rootball, will help the plant to grow properly.

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Summer’s poorly Schlumbergera.

Poorly Thanksgiving Cactus

• Summer sent in pictures of her Thanksgiving cactus aka Schlumbergera truncata which is about a year and a half old - it flowered beautifully then started to develop round marks on the cladodes (the flattened stems of the plant).

• I fear this is some kind of virus - there are various viruses Schlumbergera and other forest cacti can get, including Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus and Cactus Virus X. Sadly there is no cure for these viruses at present.

• Such viruses can be spread from plant to plant in various ways, including through sap-sucking thrips moving from one plant to another.

• As this plant is fairly new rather than an heirloom, I would not risk keeping it around in case it infects other plants.

• Other things can cause lumps and bumps on these plants: scale, which looks like brown discs and will move when pushed with a fingernail. Brown patches can also be caused by physical damage, or ‘corking’ on lower stems on older plants.

• Find out more about forest cacti in On The Ledge episodes 84 and 85.

Everfresh tree update

• In the Q&A special in episode 201, I got asked about the everfresh tree - Pithecellobium confertum - seemingly available in Japan and Singapore and surrounding countries, but not Europe or the US.

• Jack asked if I had had any luck finding this plant since, and the simple answer is no - although James Wong Aka @botanygeek did post on Insta about this plant a few weeks ago.

• I asked James where he got his plant, and he said it was seed from a friend - and he suspects that the reason why these plants have not arrived in Europe or the US is because the seed needs to be sown very fresh (I guess the clue’s in the name?)

• But surely this is not an insurmountable problem for growers? I guess we’ll see in the next few months and years whether this plant catches on globally, but for now most of us are limited to staring at images of it on social media. You can take a look at the seemingly variegated specimen I found on Instagram here.

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CREDITS

This week's show featured the tracks Roll Jordan Roll by the Joy Drops, The Road We Use To Travel When We Were Kids by Komiku and Namaste by Jason Shaw. The ad music was Dill Pickles by the Heftone Banjo Orchestra.

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